Posts Tagged ‘SHCS’

How Do They Do It That Fast?

November 6, 2008

10secs

From zero to 7′ in under 10 seconds. Taken from the clip on YouTube, the video shows cutting-in freehand against a stained casing in under 10 seconds with one load of paint on the brush. So how do they do that you ask?

First off it takes a steady hand but there are a number of things happening in this video that doesn’t meet the eye so lets take a closer look at them.

1.) The wood edge of the casing is sanded smooth and varnished

2.) The 1st coat wall paint is sanded smooth next to the casing

3.) The flat wall paint used for 1st coat reduces drag when cutting over it.

4.) The 3" brush used is a precision brush that holds a ton of paint

Can you tape the side of a casing in under 10 secs?

Here is the TheSHCS video

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Paint with a roller

April 8, 2007

Paint efficiently with a proven system and $20

By Jack Pauhl
Originally Published Jan 1999 on paintreview.com
In this article, we’ll teach you an advanced painting system and the tools required to quickly apply a smooth, consistent coat of paint. We’re going to show you how to avoiding common problems such as light or heavy spots and roller marks.

The best system will not work with poor-quality tools. Selecting the proper roller cover is the first step. It’s important to purchase a quality roller cover designed for your project and the paint you plan to spread. Quality roller covers will have a plastic core, tapered edges and not shed fibers.

When selecting a roller cover, remove it from the plastic bag; grasp one end of the cover, quickly and lightly using the thumb and index finger of your other hand, run your thumb and finger down the cover a few times. Loose fibers indicate a poor quality cover.

Poor-quality covers will continue to shed each time you run your hand down the cover. Tiny fibers will end up stuck in the paint finish leaving you with less than desirable results. Quality covers will shed very few fibers if any. Generally, white woven nap covers are good for semi-gloss, eggshell or low sheen paints. White woven covers can be used with flat paints but may add more time and energy rolling.

Selecting a quality roller frame is the next step. Stay away from cheap throw away all-in-one paint kits. You can clean up and reuse a quality set and have it for years for about $20. Look for a rigid 90º roller frame. A quality frames cage will have noticeably heavier metal in comparison to the cheaper frames. Be sure your roller cover fits the frame.

Our next step is selecting a roller pan, roller pans come in various sizes. The largest pan is 21” which accommodates an 18” roller frame. Look for the next size down, 13” deep-well tray which accommodates a 9” frame and holds 3 quarts of paint, now available in plastic and metal. Plastic throw away liners used in conjunction with metal pans are also available for changing colors quickly without much cleanup. Simply toss away the liner.

The last tool we need is an extension pole. Professionals use a telescoping extension pole that attaches to the end of the handle on the roller frame. Extension poles can be costly but an inexpensive alternative is a threaded wood handle found at paint stores. Be sure the roller frame has a threaded end (most do), not socket and pin style unless you are purchasing that particular set.

Shopping List

1 – Roller Cover ½”
1 – Roller Frame 9”
1 – Roller Pan 13”
1 – Wood Extension Pole

Benefits of quality tools go beyond having them around for years; you will work more efficiently.
Here’s a quick TIP

How to get started with immediate professional results. If your project requires more than 1 gallon of paint, it is necessary to pour all single gallons into a single larger bucket called boxing the paint. By boxing (mixing) the paint, you make sure any differences in tint between gallons are mixed together. This is important! Colorant or tint machines are known to produce slight varying results between gallons. You can purchase a color in the morning and another gallon the same color in the evening and the two may be slightly off.

Always be sure to have enough paint to complete the project, and never leave the paint store without checking the color of each gallon.

Let’s get started painting.

STEP 1

Pour approximately ¾ of a gallon of paint into the deep-well pan. Place the roller cover on the frame and load the roller cover in the pan using a sweeping motion down the ramp of the pan. Allowing the roller cover to spin slightly until the roller cover is loaded with paint (as shown on the left). Repeat the motion approximately 12 times; make sure the entire surface of the cover is heavily loaded. Allow the loaded cover to sit on the ramp for 5 minutes. This process is called marinating the cover. When you return, most if not all the paint that you loaded initially should be absorbed into the cover. Proceed by loading the cover a few more times down the ramp. This load will be placed on the wall. Screw the wooden extension pole into the handle of the roller frame.

STEP 2

Starting from a corner and assuming you cut-in everything doing the ceiling line last, place the loaded cover on the center of the wall. Avoid using too much pressure. Move the roller up the wall first approximately 2’ then roll back down another 2’ from center starting position. Proceed up the wall past your last position then back down further than the previous pass. Continue this gradual up and down motion until you reach the top and bottom of the wall. If the paint appears too light or you find yourself pressing hard on the wall for coverage, take another lighter load and finish the area in the same manner. If you have too much paint, gradually move the cover over into the next area until you reach the desired results.

QUICK TIP – If you need to take a break for any reason try to complete the wall first.

STEP 3
Simply repeat STEP 2 over and over slightly overlapping the previous section as you move down the wall to the next corner. Keep a wet look. It may be necessary to work a 3’ wide area consistency before you proceed across the wall.

Edited and republished with permission from Superior Home Care Services

Stain Masonite Doors

April 7, 2007

You can save money by purchasing 6-Panel Masonite doors instead of real oak, pine or poplar doors. Masonite doors can be stained to look similar to real wood by applying a base primer and semi-solid stain, finishing off with two coats of clear.

Apply a base-coat of tinted primer matching the color of bare wood used on your project. If you trimmed the doors with oak then find a color chip from the paint store closest to the color of bare wood. Mix the color in a flat oil-based primer. The goal is to get the door to look as close to real bare wood before you stain. The base coat adds depth when applying stain.

Whichever primer used, make sure it has a flat finish. Stain sticks best to flat surfaces. The next day, you will be applying stain similar to spreading a thin dragged-out coat of paint. Two things first, the oil brush should be an ox hair blend or angular silk bristle; black china can be used if the other two are unavailable. Expect to go through two brushes on approximately 18 doors. These brushes have a required degree of firmness but yet soft enough bristle that allows you to tweak the character of the stain. I recommend Zar brand solid oil stain, they can be mixed together to achieve custom colors.

If the door has recessed panels, start with the top two moving to the middle two then the bottom two. (see photo on the left) Finish off working around the panels in the same direction of the artificial grain. Pay attention to the grain. Masonite doors should have 2 coats of varnish applied after two full days of drying time, be sure to seal all six edges.

Spend about 15 minutes per side; prepare to move swiftly, stain will set up if you move too slowly. If you mess up, worst thing to do is re-prime and start over. It happens… it’s touch-and-go. Once the door is stained avoid going back over it unless you have drips. If so, gently feather lightly with the dry tip of the brush in the same direction of the grain. If you experience drips from the recessed panels, chances are the stain is too heavy to achieve the desired color. The right color match is achieved when the stain looks good applied lightly but not dry. The inside bevel of the panels are areas to watch out for heaviness.

The process is lengthy and requires 4 steps that require 5 days, mainly dry time. Staining moves slowly as you add character to a painted door. Treat each side of the door as a clean canvas. It’s an art to make them look just right. Many people apply stain and it either looks blotchy or it looks too consistently perfect, or unnatural.

TIP: for dark mahogany stain colors, use a base-coat brown in color. Red mahogany stain applied over a brownish base achieves nice results.

Edited, Updated and republished with permission from Superior Home Care Services