Posts Tagged ‘paint’

Load Balancing

December 13, 2008

superfab What is Load Balancing?

Years ago I conducted a study on how far various roller covers can carry a load of paint. You can see an example in the photo. I wanted to know how much more distance can I get out of all the 1/2" covers available to me and find the best one. Then I wanted to compare the 1/2" covers against 3/4" covers of the same brand to see how much more distance I can get using a 3/4" cover assuming a desired roller texture. The same study was conducted on brushes.

Load balancing is gauged on the capacity of the brush or roller and the amount of paint you load them with for optimum results. Each load (amount of paint) is predetermined before taking the load based on for example where it will be placed on the wall or trim.

Load Balancing is one of the more important aspects with efficient painting. It’s a combination between the right paint brush or roller and the amount of paint in which you load them and how it impacts performance more than anything else.

Load Balancing allows me to paint ridiculously fast because each (next move) or next load of paint is thought out. What this does is eliminates unnecessary brushwork and/or more effective results with each load of paint.

In the video where the side of the casing is painted in about 8 seconds, Load Balancing plays a huge role in allowing me to do that. 1) The brush needs to be capable of holding a load of paint to go the distance of 7’. 2) I also need to know how much paint I will need to travel 7’ and put that amount of paint on the brush.

Look for more on this topic soon along with video demonstrations. For now you can see more on this topic here.

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Wooster PRO CLASSIC Covers

October 21, 2008

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This cover is unique, but its performance is nothing special.

When I first purchased one of these PRO CLASSIC 1/2" covers I didn’t see any difference between these and Wooster Super Fab covers besides the color. I wrote a nice review about the PRO CLASSIC covers awhile back and how similar they were to a Super Fab. Well it seems as with all good things they come to an end and this is no exception. Recently I purchased a 2 pak of these covers and I was shocked at the difference in quality from when I first used them years ago. I was able to reuse them over and over for months before but with the recently purchased covers I am lucky to get past the first job. No joke! The older ones used to be full and thick but these new ones are more like a 1/4" covers in comparison.

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I guess I’m amazed when products change they don’t call them something different because with this product, the cover is nothing even close to what it used to be. Thumbs down on this one Wooster! I wrote about how manufacturers do this all the time. It’s not right. I liked them when they first came out but the covers are no longer what they used to be. You can clearly see from the photo these covers are skinny for 1/2". What a shame. On a side-note: shedding is minimal and the wash easy.

About Wall Primers II

October 6, 2007

Two years in the making. There are probably not many painters that can talk about wall primers like I can. My current issue with trying to get a nice eggshell finish over new drywall has put me on a path of learning everything there is to know about the capabilities of primers and there are more issues with using a primer vs. not.

What are wall primers capable of? Nothing if you ask me unless you apply primer with an airless about 20 mil thick, then maybe you might have something but not always. Remember, I am talking about primer on new drywall. Primers are typically no different than another coat of paint and in most cases I’ve seen, paint provides a better bond to new board over primers. WOW! That sort of changes everything you’ve been told about always use a primer huh? Well, that’s no bull shit!

Of the 12 primers I have now spent countless hours with over the past two years testing, there’s only one I feel gives the best results for paints where sheen is important. ICI Gripper does not dry flat and its absorption in to new drywall is minimal.

Primers are often said to be a miracle product. Paint reps tend to think of primer as a foundation to a successful paint finish. Yeah well, let me tell you – that is a bunch of BS! Paint reps tell you they provide a better bond, they minimize porosity in drywall etc. A paint rep once told me that primer will stop nailpops. Holy smokes that is amazing!

Do you know what wall primer in fact does? Primer wastes your time and your money AND some primers will even add more work to your project or even worst, cause unforeseen new problems. For example, loss of sheen. Did you know that of all 12 primers, only ICI Gripper maintained sheen level. Other primers require 3 top coats to achieve full sheen. Most primers will suck up sheen like crazy even the ones that advertise "HOLDS GLOSS"… my ass it holds gloss. Seriously, who is testing these products?

I got banned from an online paint message board (idiots)before I could answer back on this topic. Apparently there are some painters who feel threatened when you come to the table with information they never heard of or information that sounds absurd. I understand, I do, just remember – until you go through what I went through product testing 12 primers over two years, I would suggest you take my word for it.

Some of my worst issues with painting in my 30 years experience have been due to failure of primer but not only with drywall. I am uncertain if the primer itself is failing or the primer is failing to do what it’s advertised to do. I don’t care really either way. The bottom line is, wall primer is useless.
 
Some of my readers may be aware of the tread on a certain message board. The answer is this: The paint I talked about ICI 1410 sticks better to new drywall and taped drywall joints than any of the 12 primers I tested. You can apply a piece of masking tape to new drywall primed with your favorite primer and pull the tape and primer and paint off the wall. And please save me the "you didn’t prep it right" BS.

Coming soon – How to treat or not treat new drywall

Paint Industry Manufacturers

August 30, 2007

As with most every other industry we see products we use day-in and day-out change without notice. Remember how big the Chips Ahoy cookies used to be? What are they now, bite size? Shouldn’t Nabisco call them bite size chocolate chip cookies? Dare I mention the Big Mac? What the hell is that, a kids sandwich? Boy those beef patties on the Wendy’s burgers are sure getting thin too, if they make them any smaller it will look like bacon. The paint industry is no exception to the diminishing product phenomenon; well, a gallon is still a gallon but the quality of product is always changing.

Let me make something clear, less is not more and if you are a manufacturer and you change a product, do us all a favor and call it something else because it is no longer what it used to be if you changed it, right?

Changing formulas in paint product is common and they are so good about not telling you it changed. If you spread hundreds of gallons of a product each year then all of a sudden you get a gallon of paint that changed, you notice it immediately.

More often in my experience, product changes are for the worst. Once you question the rep about a product, they often tell you it was reformulated to increase this or that. Well buddy, it still sucks and maybe even more so than it did before it was changed, oh and by the way, why does it cost more now?

Ask Jack!

April 8, 2007

Fire away! Feel free to email me any questions you may have. My email is located under my profile. I look forward to helping any way I can.

-jack

Brushes Closeup

April 8, 2007

If you plan on taping-off before you paint then you can use any brush on the market and the following information is meaningless. The following example is for those of us who cut-in freehand without masking tape.

Let’s take a close up look at two synthetic brushes; both are made of a nylon/polyester blend. The first photo below is of a Sherwin Williams (SW) brush, the second is a Benjamin Moore (BM) brush.

Let me briefly explain filaments or (bristles) most of us call them. Filaments come is various lengths and thicknesses, and can be tapered similar to a toothpick. Some brushes have all one length and others like the BM brush have several different filament lengths. The ends (white tips) are “tipped” and “flagged” to give the paint a final feather-like
soft stroke finish.

Notice the following: Click each photo below to view a larger image.
The bulkiness of the SW in comparison to the BM.
The poor tipping and flagging on the SW brush vs. BM brush.
The super sharpness of the BM vs. SW
The BM brush appears to have needle-like filaments vs. SW
The SW brush looks like a caterpillar on the end of
it.
I’m not positive but I do not think the BM is flagged at all.

A quality brush will have good abrasion resistance, the thicker the filament, the faster it will wear. Also important is bend recovery, the ability for a brush to return back to its normal state.
Now you know what to look for in a brush and at the moment, the BM brush shown is the sharpest brush on the market known to me.

Click photo to view Benjamin Moore’s various filament
lengths.
The following photos are:
Benjamin Moore 65125
Purdy Nylox-Glide
Purdy Pro-Extra Glide
Purdy XL-Glide

Where do you shop?

April 8, 2007

We are often asked where we buy our paints and materials. You might not think that question could be answered easily with the enormous amount of product and sundries on the market. There are hundreds of paints and thousands of sundries to pick from. Our list is small.

We currently use two ICI Dulux Paint products and one from Benjamin Moore.
Brushes – Benjamin Moore 65125 and 65330
Roller Covers- Wooster SuperFabs and Pro doo-Z
Caulk- DAP 35-Year Alex Plus Siliconized Acrylic
Primer- Zinsser High hide Cover-Stain and Zinsser Bulls Eye High Hide Odorless primer
Putty- Color Putty Brand Oil-based
Patch- DAP DryDex (now available in square tub) and DAP CrackShot
Frame 9″- MAGIKAGE® NINETY
Frame 18″- SHERLOCK® WIDE BOY™
Caulk Gun- Dripless Industrial SI300 with a 14:1 ratio
Sanding Pads – Glit

Pan vs. Bucket Rolling

April 8, 2007

The debate is on! Some people, even self proclaimed professionals, suggest rolling out of a bucket is the best method for seemingly endless reasons in comparison to rolling out of a traditional paint pan.

Some of the suggested benefits of bucket rolling are:

Easy to move bucket without spilling
Buckets hold more paint
Less likely to step in a bucket
Quicker and easier to load a roller cover

There are about 20 more reasons I know of but one reason keeps me away from bucket rolling. Bucket rolling is downright messy, period! It’s messy while you work, it’s messy on the wall, its messy on the screen, it’s plain messy.

One inherent issue when rolling out of a bucket is the art of skillfully dunking the cover without getting any paint on the end-caps and roller frame. When you dunk the cover too far, (past the thickness) of the nap, the paint will always sling drips on the wall and even you. The drips are not always easily detected until the paint is dry. The fast drying paint on the screen is another issue. So for that simple reason, I remain a pan man.

Paint with a roller

April 8, 2007

Paint efficiently with a proven system and $20

By Jack Pauhl
Originally Published Jan 1999 on paintreview.com
In this article, we’ll teach you an advanced painting system and the tools required to quickly apply a smooth, consistent coat of paint. We’re going to show you how to avoiding common problems such as light or heavy spots and roller marks.

The best system will not work with poor-quality tools. Selecting the proper roller cover is the first step. It’s important to purchase a quality roller cover designed for your project and the paint you plan to spread. Quality roller covers will have a plastic core, tapered edges and not shed fibers.

When selecting a roller cover, remove it from the plastic bag; grasp one end of the cover, quickly and lightly using the thumb and index finger of your other hand, run your thumb and finger down the cover a few times. Loose fibers indicate a poor quality cover.

Poor-quality covers will continue to shed each time you run your hand down the cover. Tiny fibers will end up stuck in the paint finish leaving you with less than desirable results. Quality covers will shed very few fibers if any. Generally, white woven nap covers are good for semi-gloss, eggshell or low sheen paints. White woven covers can be used with flat paints but may add more time and energy rolling.

Selecting a quality roller frame is the next step. Stay away from cheap throw away all-in-one paint kits. You can clean up and reuse a quality set and have it for years for about $20. Look for a rigid 90º roller frame. A quality frames cage will have noticeably heavier metal in comparison to the cheaper frames. Be sure your roller cover fits the frame.

Our next step is selecting a roller pan, roller pans come in various sizes. The largest pan is 21” which accommodates an 18” roller frame. Look for the next size down, 13” deep-well tray which accommodates a 9” frame and holds 3 quarts of paint, now available in plastic and metal. Plastic throw away liners used in conjunction with metal pans are also available for changing colors quickly without much cleanup. Simply toss away the liner.

The last tool we need is an extension pole. Professionals use a telescoping extension pole that attaches to the end of the handle on the roller frame. Extension poles can be costly but an inexpensive alternative is a threaded wood handle found at paint stores. Be sure the roller frame has a threaded end (most do), not socket and pin style unless you are purchasing that particular set.

Shopping List

1 – Roller Cover ½”
1 – Roller Frame 9”
1 – Roller Pan 13”
1 – Wood Extension Pole

Benefits of quality tools go beyond having them around for years; you will work more efficiently.
Here’s a quick TIP

How to get started with immediate professional results. If your project requires more than 1 gallon of paint, it is necessary to pour all single gallons into a single larger bucket called boxing the paint. By boxing (mixing) the paint, you make sure any differences in tint between gallons are mixed together. This is important! Colorant or tint machines are known to produce slight varying results between gallons. You can purchase a color in the morning and another gallon the same color in the evening and the two may be slightly off.

Always be sure to have enough paint to complete the project, and never leave the paint store without checking the color of each gallon.

Let’s get started painting.

STEP 1

Pour approximately ¾ of a gallon of paint into the deep-well pan. Place the roller cover on the frame and load the roller cover in the pan using a sweeping motion down the ramp of the pan. Allowing the roller cover to spin slightly until the roller cover is loaded with paint (as shown on the left). Repeat the motion approximately 12 times; make sure the entire surface of the cover is heavily loaded. Allow the loaded cover to sit on the ramp for 5 minutes. This process is called marinating the cover. When you return, most if not all the paint that you loaded initially should be absorbed into the cover. Proceed by loading the cover a few more times down the ramp. This load will be placed on the wall. Screw the wooden extension pole into the handle of the roller frame.

STEP 2

Starting from a corner and assuming you cut-in everything doing the ceiling line last, place the loaded cover on the center of the wall. Avoid using too much pressure. Move the roller up the wall first approximately 2’ then roll back down another 2’ from center starting position. Proceed up the wall past your last position then back down further than the previous pass. Continue this gradual up and down motion until you reach the top and bottom of the wall. If the paint appears too light or you find yourself pressing hard on the wall for coverage, take another lighter load and finish the area in the same manner. If you have too much paint, gradually move the cover over into the next area until you reach the desired results.

QUICK TIP – If you need to take a break for any reason try to complete the wall first.

STEP 3
Simply repeat STEP 2 over and over slightly overlapping the previous section as you move down the wall to the next corner. Keep a wet look. It may be necessary to work a 3’ wide area consistency before you proceed across the wall.

Edited and republished with permission from Superior Home Care Services

Brush Hype!

April 7, 2007

What’s with all the hype on using quality brushes lately? Did the message finally get through? For many years I pushed and pushed the importance of a quality brush while others said it’s the paint that produces professional finishes. I posted videos, reviews, wrote brush manufacturers, I dedicated so much to this topic in the past 10 years, and it’s nice to finally see HYPE about it. But wait, how does the average person know a good brush when they see one?

The brush is an extension of your hand and your mind. A quality brush allows you to DO what you envision in your mind. If you envision I want paint to go into this small corner without getting paint on the trim, a quality brush will allow you to do just that! You would be surprised what a great painter or DIY’r you can be with the proper brush. If you asked me, what is the most important tool in my arsenal; it’s the brush but only one of the two I use.

Specifically, the Benjamin Moore 65125 Nylon/Polyester blend 2 ½” angular sash brush. It’s a mouthful to say, but a world of promise, precision, capacity and capability. It’s hard to believe looking at the photo on the left that the 65330 brush when loaded with paint can be as sharp as a blade. The design is simply amazing.

Would you send just anyone out to run an important task for you? Probably not, so why use a brush that is not fully up to the challenge you feel like unleashing on it? Got my point? Great!

Moving on, when you shop for a brush to cut-in trim you want to take the brush out of the paper form and touch and feel the brush. Does the brush feel like and look like the dust brush you use with your dust pan? Are the brush bristles or filaments coarse, bent, wavy, too firm, too soft, not sharp enough or not tapered? Imagine what the plan is to do with the brush and carefully inspect and suspect the brush to the point where you feel you can perform great things with that brush.

To save you the hassle of selection, the Benjamin Moore brush mentioned is a true performer. It’s one brush of more than 75 of the most popular brushes we tested to date with capabilities the others lack. Google the brush if you are unable to find it locally, order it if you have to.