Archive for the ‘various tips’ Category

Painting walls Red

January 16, 2009

ICI Color Pallet

Painting walls red is the most difficult range of color to get nice solid coverage.

Here are a few painting tips on how to get the best solid coverage when painting shades of red.

First, the quality of paint has little to do with coverage when it comes to painting red. The term ‘quality’ and ‘professional’ are two loosely used words in this industry. It would be foolish of me to tell you to go out and buy a quality paint because what defines quality?

Do you think you are going to pick up two gallons of paint at the paint store and compare labels and make a decision? No, you most likely wont and good luck having the store representative tell you why a particular paint is better than another.

Second, we want to take a look at the paint chip and determine if your particular color requires a tinted primer to be applied to the walls first. Often a shade of gray primer is required under many shades of red.

SW 6869 StopOn a Sherwin Williams paint deck or color pallet, the color chip will have a P printed  above the color number. The P indicates optimum color results are achieved using the designated Color-Prime system.

 

ICI Crimson RedOn an ICI Paints Color Pallet its not as easy to quickly determine if a gray primer is required. The ICI Color Pallet has each color broken down into 3 parts. The first portion is the HUE, for example looking at the color Crimson Red #31YR 10/591, the HUE is 31YR, the Light Reflective Value (LRV) is 10 and the last portion is Chroma, 591.

Hue: The color family

LRV: The lightness or darkness of the color. The higher the number the lighter the color.

Chroma: The intensity of a color. The higher the number, the more intense the color.

Here is a fair rule-of-thumb. A gray primer is likely recommended for any Chroma value over 450. An ICI Store representative can assist you with the shade of gray to use.

This is what you need

You want to use a quality white woven roller cover, not any yellow or green colored covers – generally speaking. Do not be afraid to spend $5 for a single cover. This is not an area to skimp on. White woven roller covers are white in color and are more tightly woven providing a smoother more solid finish. White woven covers generally shed the least if any at all so you should avoid getting fuzzies in the paint.

Use a 3/8” roller cover for smooth walls and a 1/2” cover for slightly textured surfaces.

DO NOT use Lambs wool roller covers for intense wall colors.

This is how I recommend painting red colors.

When you are ready to paint, do not cut or trim anything in first. Simply pull out a roller pan, fill it with red paint and start rolling as tightly as you can to everything. If you use masking tape, then you should roll very close to everything. You  may even want to roll horizontally near the ceiling to get closer. Allow the first rolled coat to dry before you cut or trim it in.

Now that your first coat of red is dry, you can start cutting-in the areas you were not able to get with a roller. Allow to dry.

For your second coat, you want to cut-in first and allow it to dry before you roll the second coat.

If your red requires a third coat (likely) then again, wait until the walls are dry, and start painting the edges first and then roll.

Some paints will allow you to backroll and others will not. Back rolling is best described by rolling an area and before you get too far down the wall, you go back to where you started and lightly re-roll that area without adding more paint to the wall. The trick is to allow the paint to set-up a bit and then lightly pass the roller cover over it again.

To determine if your paint will allow you to do this, simply roll a small area behind a door and wait a few minutes and then lightly re-roll it. If the area looks worst than before you backrolled, then your paint is best left rolled and left to dry. Meaning, don’t go back over it until its dry.

More painting tips & techniques on my other site.

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How paint increases humidity

November 7, 2008

IMG_0728a

This is just an FYI piece.

The project was to paint one 12×12 room with one coat of paint. I took a humidity reading prior to starting and again when finished. The humidity in the room before I started was 44% so as you can see just how much humidity painting one room with the door open can increase. In just 7 minutes of rolling the walls, the humidity jumped 14%.

Poor mans cover keeper

October 23, 2007
Simple, cheap and effective! Wrapping your roller cover in a trash bag for overnight or 30 days later will save you time and headache. I use plastic when I exceed the number of PVC keepers I have. Plastic bags keep the cover wet for at least 30 days, just keep them out of direct sunlight.
I use a low tack masking tape for easy removal. If you know you are going to be in and out of a color, after you reopen the plastic bag, fold the bag in half (wet on wet) and reuse it when you’re done.

See also: Roller Cover Care

Putty & Fillers

October 11, 2007

DAP CRACKSHOT mixed with blue food coloring provides easy-to-see patches when it comes time to sand. This allows smooth feathering of edges while at the same time helps prevent missing areas that need sanded. This TIP may or may not require a primer to lock in the food coloring. Test a sample area first.

With countless methods and products available to prepare new trim for paint who’s to know which method produces the best finishes. We take a close look into various products for filling nail holes and repairing imperfections on the surface of trim to achieve a nice smooth finish. Painters all have their preference when in comes to filling nail holes on new trim. A few popular methods for filling nail holes are, nail putty, window glazing, wood filler, drywall mud, shrink-free spackling, sawdust and glue, whiting powder and oil based paint, even caulk to name a few.

The method of attack is solely based on the type of finish you desire. For every method mentioned previously, there are countless products available. For example nail putty in our area is sold by MinWax, DAP, Sherwin Williams, Color Putty brand, Crawfords to name a few but all perform differently. Nail putty is sold in oil-based and water-based formulas. It’s important to know which to use under various finish paint products. For example, you might think using a oil-based putty for oil-based paints is best, not true.

In fact, it’s the opposite. When an oil-based putty is used under oil-based paints, the nail putty leaves a shiny wet spot in the surface of the paint and takes months to dry out.

Paint contractors can not afford to wait the recommended drying period of up to 21 days for oil-based nail putty to cure prior to painting so we turn to other methods that allow us to produce quick turn around on finishes without much delay. There are many work-around methods to use oil-based putty under oil finishes. Some include using whiting powder or drywall dust to dry-out the oils in the putty with the idea of making the putty as dry as possible and still workable to fill holes with. While this method can work the putty still needs to skin over and overnight is best before applying the finish paint. Another method used in the field is filling with an oil-based putty and priming with an acrylic primer prior to applying an oil finish.

See also: Stainable Wood Fillers

Racking 5 1/2" Baseboard

October 11, 2007

Here is a simple yet effective way of racking baseboard. Ceramic tile is very common in the houses we paint and lots of it. A huge time saver is to get one coat of paint on the baseboard prior to the carpenter installing it.

We set the baseboard on saw horses and shoot them with an airless sprayer then rack them to dry.

The racking system is also used to paint standard 3 ½” base boards. In this scenario, we stand the rack up against the wall. A word of CAUTION when standing this rack against the wall, be sure to load your boards from the top down. We you are ready to remove the boards, remove them from the bottom up.

See also: Racking Trim

Cover Keeper

October 11, 2007

Time is money, unfortunately in this business there is no way around that. This little tip is just one of many things that reduce operating costs but also reduce time, the wasted kind. Cleaning an 18” roller cover takes time. It’s not financially feasible to pay someone to clean roller covers, so the option is to clean them yourself or toss them. I minimize the number of times I clean them.

In new construction, we first coat on a scheduled day and then we typically will not be back to that house for about a month sometimes less. It’s a waste of my time to clean roller covers when I know they will be needed later for second coat and even touchups after that.

This cover keeper made from PVC will keep roller covers wet until I need them for second coat. I simply put a piece of masking tape on the tube and mark the color and job name. The roller covers will stay in the tubes until the job is closed out and the homeowner’s house closes with the builder.

I used two 18” covers a total of seven times on the house I completed today but started 2 months ago. Think of all the time saved. I would have had to clean those covers 14 times.

See also: Roller Cover Care and Select Roller Covers

Pole Sander Mod

October 9, 2007

Here is a great Mod for your pole sander. Until you pole sand a dark paint color – chances are you probably never knew how poor these pole sanders perform.

I have three pole sanders like this one all from different companies and they all have the same problem. The sandpaper does not make full contact with the wall. Instead, the outer edges are typically the only area that touches the wall. If you were to apply more pressure towards the wall you will then get a heavy sanding spot only in the center where the pole attaches to the sander.

I used a piece of foam 1/4" thick from JoAnn Fabrics store cut precisely the same size as the pad on the sander then I mount my sheet of paper. You will be amazed how well this works and how much easier and less effort it is to sand out a house. Very little pressure is required. Here is another pole sander option from the guys at Full Circle International.

Click to view larger image. Notice the full width of the modified pole sander makes excellent contact with the wall. I made one single pass with and without the mod using light pressure.

Freehand 2 Wall Colors

October 8, 2007

Here is a tip when you have 2 wall colors that join either in a corner or anywhere else. Always cut the light colors first and be sure to cut about 1/4" onto the 2nd color or joining area, in this case – the corner. Obviously dry time is required, then come back and freehand the darker color about 1/16" of an inch onto the 1st color (tan).

By overlapping the tan color in this photo with the dark redish brown, we will achieve a dominant break. If we were to not cut 1/16" into the joining color, the tan color may appear to be more dominant despite its lighter color.

Colors Used
Walls: Behr Dessert Sand and Sherwin Williams SW 6068 Brevity Brown
Trim:
New Dirty White
Ceiling: Proform Match

Split Spindle System

October 8, 2007

Here is a helpful painting tip for preparing a split color handrail stair system after installation. The spindles and handrail are usually done on a rack system before installation but in this case the homeowner changed their mind after it was installed. Oh joy!

This stair system will have stained newels, handrail and bottom plate with painted spindles (balusters). Obviously prep time is the biggest factor with this job. We will have approximately 40 hours in this rail when it’s complete. The poplar spindles were primed with Zinsser Odorless Oil Primer using an HVLP. When sanded, the spindles will be as smooth as a babies ass. You can’t get that from an acrylic primer on poplar trim.

The photo below shows how we will minimize the masking procedure. Using a dime, we traced around the dime and made a cut-out in the piece of tape. Two pieces should be all you need between and under the handrail for the pintop.

See also: HVLP Transfer Efficiency

Penetrol – Other uses

October 7, 2007

Most of us painters know how well Penetrol works with thick tacky oil-based product but did you know that when applied to metal surfaces – Penetrol dries to a clear flexible-like film to help prevent rust. I used Penetrol to spray the bottom of my mower deck and all the zinc-coated bolts.

These photos were taken with the iPhone.