Archive for the ‘systems’ Category

Load Balancing

December 13, 2008

superfab What is Load Balancing?

Years ago I conducted a study on how far various roller covers can carry a load of paint. You can see an example in the photo. I wanted to know how much more distance can I get out of all the 1/2" covers available to me and find the best one. Then I wanted to compare the 1/2" covers against 3/4" covers of the same brand to see how much more distance I can get using a 3/4" cover assuming a desired roller texture. The same study was conducted on brushes.

Load balancing is gauged on the capacity of the brush or roller and the amount of paint you load them with for optimum results. Each load (amount of paint) is predetermined before taking the load based on for example where it will be placed on the wall or trim.

Load Balancing is one of the more important aspects with efficient painting. It’s a combination between the right paint brush or roller and the amount of paint in which you load them and how it impacts performance more than anything else.

Load Balancing allows me to paint ridiculously fast because each (next move) or next load of paint is thought out. What this does is eliminates unnecessary brushwork and/or more effective results with each load of paint.

In the video where the side of the casing is painted in about 8 seconds, Load Balancing plays a huge role in allowing me to do that. 1) The brush needs to be capable of holding a load of paint to go the distance of 7’. 2) I also need to know how much paint I will need to travel 7’ and put that amount of paint on the brush.

Look for more on this topic soon along with video demonstrations. For now you can see more on this topic here.


How Do They Do It That Fast?

November 6, 2008


From zero to 7′ in under 10 seconds. Taken from the clip on YouTube, the video shows cutting-in freehand against a stained casing in under 10 seconds with one load of paint on the brush. So how do they do that you ask?

First off it takes a steady hand but there are a number of things happening in this video that doesn’t meet the eye so lets take a closer look at them.

1.) The wood edge of the casing is sanded smooth and varnished

2.) The 1st coat wall paint is sanded smooth next to the casing

3.) The flat wall paint used for 1st coat reduces drag when cutting over it.

4.) The 3" brush used is a precision brush that holds a ton of paint

Can you tape the side of a casing in under 10 secs?

Here is the TheSHCS video

How to stain Windows

October 22, 2008
IMG_0562Here is a quick How To for doing windows regardless if painted or stained. These are Andersen Windows. I first removed the window latch hardware and cleaned them up with a shop vac.
IMG_0563I first pull the back sash (outer most) down a bit and unlock the front sash and allow it to open into the room. I will be starting on the bottom of the back sash first.
IMG_0564Starting at the bottom of the back sash and working my way up on the right.
IMG_0565Continuing up on the left
IMG_0566Across the top
IMG_0567While the front sash is still down, run around the trim closest to the track so when the sash is popped back in place that area is complete.
IMG_0568Lift and hold the front sash and finish the top edge
IMG_0569Pop the front sash back in place and push down a bit to lock in (you will hear it) and slide the sash back up a bit
IMG_0571Finish off the front sash
IMG_0572Slide the front sash up to allow you to finish remaining area closest to the track guide
IMG_0573Here is completed area around track guide. At this point you can slide the front sash down and finish the casing areas. This is a good time to step back and look over your work.

Here is one portion completed. You can click photos for larger viewing. This method allows me to do one double-hung window in 7 minutes. I do them exactly the same every time.

Cutting 8′ vs. 16′

October 24, 2007

Painting high ceiling lines.

Have you ever figured out the time difference for cutting a 16’ high wall vs. an 8’ wall? – I have, here are the shocking results! I can comfortably cut 8’ and 9’ ceilings at the rate of 11-14 fpm. with the help from this.

Now once I hop on a 24’ extension ladder my foot rate per minute drops drastically to 3 lousy fpm. THREE FEET! So, the next time you estimate a job with a high wall, you will now know how much more to charge.

Be faster painting ceiling lines. Learn how.

Here is a video on cutting in ceiling lines using a 2 step approach.

Racking Trim

October 11, 2007

One of the areas we can save a substantial amount of time is preparing trim prior to installation. Although today we do very few stained houses, in the past every house we did for years had stained trim. Applying stain and a coat of sanding sealer to the trim before installation saved days of work. We are typically able to stain and seal a trim package for a house approximately 2300 sqft. before noon.

Using saw horses and a wool applicator pad, I apply the stain and another person racks it. CAUTION: use this racking system by loading from the TOP and working down. Then unload the rack from the bottom up. See also: Racking 5 1/2" base boards.

Basic Specs:
We used 2×4’s 8′ in length and cut them to 93" to allow for using these racks in a room with 8′ ceilings placed on an angle leaning on the wall. (see photo). Use 3" nails and starting at one end measure your first nail to be 1 1/2" from the edge and space all nails 1 1/2" apart. This spacing allows for your first trim piece to be placed face down on the nails and your second trim piece in the same nail slot face up. This allows you to maximize the racks holding capacity. One rack 93" accommodates 120 pieces of trim, 2 on each nail.

Setup doors to spray

April 21, 2007

If you are considering spraying doors with either an HVLP or airless, here is simple setup, probably one of the more common methods used. There are a number of door stacking systems available for our line of work.

Here are a few things to know before you stand them up.

1) Shop-vac the floors and put heavy construction paper down, not plastic or do like some do and shoot them on the concrete or subflooring.
2) Group doors together to prime edges with a short nap roller the day before you plan on spraying the doors. Sand and prepare for paint.
3) Use a 1” nail and door shims to tack doors together.
4) Nail approximately 3-4” in from the edge for better stability
5) Let everybody around you know to stay back while spraying. Post a sign. I almost sprayed a homeowner who slipped in the house without my knowing.
6) Allow overnight to dry before removing from paper. The doors should remove cleanly as long as you don’t puddle paint between the bottom edge of the door and the paper.
7) A 4′ whip hose comes in handy for better flexibility.

In new construction, many of the doors are MDF and require all six surfaces be painted or warranty is VOID. The MDF doors tend to warp much easier than solid wood doors. It’s a PITA but save yourself the headache of callbacks and prime the tops and bottoms.

About the Photo

The green walls and doors photo is fairly hi-res. Two things worth mentioning, the coarse edges on the doors from the factory will not get smooth with multiple coats of paint. It’s best to treat the edges with an oil-primer covering any bare MDF and sand it well for finish. Simply applying acrylic to the edges will only raise the MDF fibers and make them sharp enough for someone to cut their hands or fingers. Also, the reflective green paint is one coat of ICI Dulux 1410 over bare drywall.

Baluster Spray Rack

April 21, 2007

This racking system has been around for some time. You can place the rack on saw horses to position them at a more comfortable height. Here is some information for those who never made one, used one, or seen one. Many of the balusters we see have a ¾” peg on the bottom that will insert easily into a ¾” deep hole in a 2 x 4.

One eight foot 2 x 4 will accommodate 50 spindles spaced an inch and 7/8 apart on center and will allow you to turn them if necessary. For larger balusters you may need to insert one in every other hole. Click photos to enlarge.